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Lots of
questions - some I can answer , but others require local engineering advise.
- 24x24 is too large. It will
crack.
- 12x12 should be OK if the slab is
at least 4" thick and reinforced with wire-mesh (centered) or #3 rebars.
- If you pour the sections on
different days you probably do not need any separation - they will not
stick together. If you pour the whole thing in one day you will have to
either cut joints (with diamond blade saw) the next day, or use "zip
strips" to create the joints. Your local Home Depot should have what
you need.
- Cut joints should be at least 1/3
of the slab thickness (1/2 is better)
- The normal practice is to leave
the garage slab as a 'floating' slab. That means that it is poured
after the foundations are done and is separated from the foundations
with 'felt'. You do not tie the slab to the footing.
- I cannot answer the question
about the concrete blocks. That depends on the soil conditions, the
weight of the garage, etc. Normally I would use concrete footings
poured in trenches in the ground and reinforced with #4 bar at top and
bottom.
- The garage slab needs to slope
towards the door (for drainage). You probably need at least 1-2 inches
difference between the front and the back.
- Some points:
- Get the best concrete you can
afford. I would go with at least 3500 psi.
- Check if the soil in your
area is corrosive (includes sulfates). You will need special
sulfate resistant mix for that.
- Wet curing is critical for
good looking functional slab. Start 'misting' the concrete soon
after it hardens on the surface. Cover it with plastic. Keep
watering it for at least a week - the longer the better.
I hope that helps.
Make sure you get local advise
regarding the footing... |